Free Alpacas Newsletter- How to Profit from Alpaca Farming

Tuesday, March 03, 2009

Re: [AlpacaTalk] injections

We do not reuse needles or syringes.  We always pull back on the syringe to make sure we haven't hit a vein and if we see a flash of blood, we re-position the needle slightly.  Kathy

Kathy & Earl Klay
Jefferson Laurel Farm
8181 Havens Road
Blacklick, Ohio 43004
(614) 855-9194

--- On Tue, 3/3/09, houckj@aol.com <houckj@aol.com> wrote:

From: houckj@aol.com <houckj@aol.com>
Subject: [AlpacaTalk] injections
To: AlpacaTalk@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, March 3, 2009, 2:20 PM

Finally coming down the home stretch of getting my health care protocol
down pat and placing the order today - finally after months of delays
and distractions! The very last item on my list is the needles.

A few more questions:

I am rereading the info from the list about giving injections and it
seems that 1/2 inch needles are the preferred ones here - tho the 1"
seems to be the standard one that everyone else everywhere, including
vets, use?

Susan wrote about giving SubQs in the "elbow". Is that what you still
do Susan? Does anyone else here do that? And if so what is your
opinion on that method/location? And do you use the 1/2 " needle there?
I assume you would tent here as it would be too easy to hit the bone
in such a place?

<<<Tenting the skin with
a needle long enough to poke through the other side anyway just isn't a
very efficient method of giving shots. >>>>

I think Heather wrote this. So would you use the 1/2" needle if you are
tenting the skin? This is the method I have always used and find it
quite difficult, expecially before shearing, to know that I have skin
and not just fiber. It takes me forever to find enough skin to "roll"
(leaning over the animal from the other side, re Marty) and the animal
gets very antsy with my constant pulling and poking around. Even when I
think I have found enough loose skin, I have missed way too many times,
and often even if I haven't obviously missed, I wonder if I really
actually got the meds into the animal.

I really like the poke and plunge method that someone described - I
think it was Heather. That sounds SO simple and quick. If it is as
easy as it sounds I will no longer dread and put off the injections.
But I would be nervous to do the rump as I am told there are so many
nerves, etc back there that you can accidently hit. Wouldn't the
shoulder area be safer? Or the elbow?

Thanks! Janice.....thinking I should go ahead and order 100 1/2"
needles, but will wait for confirmation from this extremely knowledgable
and informative group :-).

PS One last thing:

<<<<We use a fresh needle for every injection. One, you don't want to put a
used needle back into the sterile bottle of med, and second, you don't
want to risk passing any blood borne anything throughout your herd, if
it is at all avoidable. But the sheath can be re-used indefinitely, I
believe. >>>>

From Marty I learned to just leave a needle in the ivermec bottle to
draw up into the syringe each time, then twist on a clean needle for
each injection. That way the med stays sterile and you don't have
ivermec on the needle which will start stinging before you even start
injecting. Needles are so cheap, I would never reuse and was always
having to remind my vet NOT to, I insisted on a clean fresh needle for
each injection, but if I wasn't watching him VERY closely he would
"cheat". I do reuse the same syringe tho. Any problems with that that
I am not aware of?

THANKS!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Re: [AlpacaTalk] injections

Hi Janice,

I was using the elbow (or skin right around and above it) for
injections. There is not much fiber there so it just was easier for me to inject
there. You do tent up the skin and I do use 1" - 1 1/2" needles since I wasn't
able to find smaller ones.

SUSAN OLSON
Alpaca Loco
Riverside, CA

"I joined a health club last year, spent about $400.
Haven't lost a pound yet. Apparently, you have to go there."

In a message dated 3/3/2009 11:18:14 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
houckj@aol.com writes:

Finally coming down the home stretch of getting my health care protocol
down pat and placing the order today - finally after months of delays
and distractions! The very last item on my list is the needles.

A few more questions:

I am rereading the info from the list about giving injections and it
seems that 1/2 inch needles are the preferred ones here - tho the 1"
seems to be the standard one that everyone else everywhere, including
vets, use?

Susan wrote about giving SubQs in the "elbow". Is that what you still
do Susan? Does anyone else here do that? And if so what is your
opinion on that method/location? And do you use the 1/2 " needle there?
I assume you would tent here as it would be too easy to hit the bone
in such a place?

<<<Tenting the skin with
a needle long enough to poke through the other side anyway just isn't a
very efficient method of giving shots. >>>>

I think Heather wrote this. So would you use the 1/2" needle if you are
tenting the skin? This is the method I have always used and find it
quite difficult, expecially before shearing, to know that I have skin
and not just fiber. It takes me forever to find enough skin to "roll"
(leaning over the animal from the other side, re Marty) and the animal
gets very antsy with my constant pulling and poking around. Even when I
think I have found enough loose skin, I have missed way too many times,
and often even if I haven't obviously missed, I wonder if I really
actually got the meds into the animal.

I really like the poke and plunge method that someone described - I
think it was Heather. That sounds SO simple and quick. If it is as
easy as it sounds I will no longer dread and put off the injections.
But I would be nervous to do the rump as I am told there are so many
nerves, etc back there that you can accidently hit. Wouldn't the
shoulder area be safer? Or the elbow?

Thanks! Janice.....thinking I should go ahead and order 100 1/2"
needles, but will wait for confirmation from this extremely knowledgable
and informative group :-).

PS One last thing:

<<<<We use a fresh needle for every injection. One, you don't want to put a
used needle back into the sterile bottle of med, and second, you don't
want to risk passing any blood borne anything throughout your herd, if
it is at all avoidable. But the sheath can be re-used indefinitely, I
believe. >>>>

From Marty I learned to just leave a needle in the ivermec bottle to
draw up into the syringe each time, then twist on a clean needle for
each injection. That way the med stays sterile and you don't have
ivermec on the needle which will start stinging before you even start
injecting. Needles are so cheap, I would never reuse and was always
having to remind my vet NOT to, I insisted on a clean fresh needle for
each injection, but if I wasn't watching him VERY closely he would
"cheat". I do reuse the same syringe tho. Any problems with that that
I am not aware of?

THANKS!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

__._,_.___
Message posts are the opinion of individuals posting and are not necessarily endorsed or approved by Yahoo! or the moderator of this group. The purpose of this discussion group is to ensure that all points of view can be aired. It is the responsbilty of all individuals who post to treat others with respect and civility.
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Free Alpacas Newsletter- How to Profit from Alpaca Farming

[AlpacaTalk] injections

Finally coming down the home stretch of getting my health care protocol
down pat and placing the order today - finally after months of delays
and distractions! The very last item on my list is the needles.

A few more questions:

I am rereading the info from the list about giving injections and it
seems that 1/2 inch needles are the preferred ones here - tho the 1"
seems to be the standard one that everyone else everywhere, including
vets, use?

Susan wrote about giving SubQs in the "elbow". Is that what you still
do Susan? Does anyone else here do that? And if so what is your
opinion on that method/location? And do you use the 1/2 " needle there?
I assume you would tent here as it would be too easy to hit the bone
in such a place?

<<<Tenting the skin with
a needle long enough to poke through the other side anyway just isn't a
very efficient method of giving shots. >>>>

I think Heather wrote this. So would you use the 1/2" needle if you are
tenting the skin? This is the method I have always used and find it
quite difficult, expecially before shearing, to know that I have skin
and not just fiber. It takes me forever to find enough skin to "roll"
(leaning over the animal from the other side, re Marty) and the animal
gets very antsy with my constant pulling and poking around. Even when I
think I have found enough loose skin, I have missed way too many times,
and often even if I haven't obviously missed, I wonder if I really
actually got the meds into the animal.

I really like the poke and plunge method that someone described - I
think it was Heather. That sounds SO simple and quick. If it is as
easy as it sounds I will no longer dread and put off the injections.
But I would be nervous to do the rump as I am told there are so many
nerves, etc back there that you can accidently hit. Wouldn't the
shoulder area be safer? Or the elbow?

Thanks! Janice.....thinking I should go ahead and order 100 1/2"
needles, but will wait for confirmation from this extremely knowledgable
and informative group :-).

PS One last thing:

<<<<We use a fresh needle for every injection. One, you don't want to put a
used needle back into the sterile bottle of med, and second, you don't
want to risk passing any blood borne anything throughout your herd, if
it is at all avoidable. But the sheath can be re-used indefinitely, I
believe. >>>>

From Marty I learned to just leave a needle in the ivermec bottle to
draw up into the syringe each time, then twist on a clean needle for
each injection. That way the med stays sterile and you don't have
ivermec on the needle which will start stinging before you even start
injecting. Needles are so cheap, I would never reuse and was always
having to remind my vet NOT to, I insisted on a clean fresh needle for
each injection, but if I wasn't watching him VERY closely he would
"cheat". I do reuse the same syringe tho. Any problems with that that
I am not aware of?

THANKS!

__._,_.___
Message posts are the opinion of individuals posting and are not necessarily endorsed or approved by Yahoo! or the moderator of this group. The purpose of this discussion group is to ensure that all points of view can be aired. It is the responsbilty of all individuals who post to treat others with respect and civility.
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Re: [AlpacaTalk] Re: no climb fence

Our experience with fencing and alpacas is that alpacas do lean very
hard on the fencing, using as a scratching post. We have had many
many t-post clips pop off, many feet of fences completely stretched
out, untold numbers of gate latches broken, we've even had fence
staples popped out from the leaning and scratching. Although they
weigh generally no more than 200 lbs, they are very strong and really
do a surprising amount of damage to fences and gates.

The electric wire stories I've heard were enough to keep me from ever
wanting to worry about it. The cria who was strangled by the wire or
tape the blew down in a windstorm, not something I ever want to find
in the morning. Snowmass Mondavi got a fighting tooth caught on a
topwire that was mounted on the extensions on the opposite side of
the fence. They say they saw him alive and well, came out 15 minutes
later to find him dead, tooth caught on the wire.

Heather

On Mar 3, 2009, at 9:29 AM, dreamwoodalpacas wrote:

> Hi Ridgley,
>
> Welcome! Alpacas are not as sensitive to the shock of an electric
> fence as their fleece provides protection (unless they use their
> nose!). Unlike horses, alpacas generally don't challenge fences
> (except sometimes hersires, and they usually weigh about 1000# less
> than a horse) the hot wire is on the outside to keep predators out,
> top for climbers and bottom for diggers.
>
> Cheers,
> Morgen Bowers
> Dreamwood Farm
> Claverack, NY
> www.dreamwoodfarm.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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[AlpacaTalk] Re: electric fence

Hey Janice,

I think the no-climb (or welded wire if your willing to replace it as
it fails) is your best bet as it works well for alpacas, horse and
goats, whereas your other choices are better for one or the other. I
question the need however, to put the hotwire strand on the inside of
the alpaca fence where the goats will only spend the night.

I volunteer at a horse rescue that has goats. They are kept in
paddocks with 4' 4"x4" or no-climb fencing with no electric and rarely
escape (usually only the babies and only then through gates and
holes). If your alpaca fencing is at least 4' (interior/females)
(5'-6' perimeter/males), you should be fine and will spare yourself
the added expense and worry. As others mentioned, the hot wire may
still be needed on the inside of the horse enclosure to keep the
horses in, and on the perimeter if predators are a problem.

Finally, a possible horse solution--the rescue uses one strand
electric tape fencing, strung through easily movable white metal 3'(?)
pegs intended for the purpose, as portable temporary summer fencing
for rotation and to provide access to the "good" grazing. It is very
easy to use and, with a solar electric box, can be used anywhere. Some
horses respect it very well, others not so much, so you have to watch
them at first :) Except for a few horses we trust we use it only for
daytime grazing. I believe it is relatively inexpensive.

Good luck.

Cheers,
Morgen Bowers
Dreamwood Farm
Claverack, NY
www.dreamwoodfarm.com

--- In AlpacaTalk@yahoogroups.com, houckj@... wrote:
>
> <<<<My favorite combo is the Redbrand and a hotline on the top about 5"
> above the fenceline.
> Slainte~
> Rachelle>>>>
>
> Thanks Rachelle. I am leaning towards the woven wire with a strand at
> the top and a strand at the bottom (for the goats and digging
> predators). I see the 5 strand suggested in goat books and it looks
> more affordable, but I just don't see it dependably keeping critters in
> AND out. If the goats weren't going to be sharing the new alpaca
> pasture part of the time (night) I wouldn't even be putting electric
> wire over there at all. I have *never* had a paca challenge a fence
and
> their fence is very cheap, old, and loose. Your boy sounds like
> something else!
>
> On a different note, I have wanted to thank you for being SO adament
> about my separating my male. Some folks may have been offended by your
> forthrightness, but I was not. It takes that sometimes to get me to
> listen; as I know there is a best or preferred way to do things and
then
> just the way that *can* be done. As I am not a breeder, I take a
lot of
> what you guys say along those type of lines with a grain of salt.....I
> am just a little ole homesteader trying to scrape by best I can on my
> own and loving my alpacas. Had you not been so forceful, I would not
> have done anything. But due to your continued harrassment <g> and
> Heather's, I DID separate my male. It is a hassle every day as I don't
> really have the set up to do that and we (my 10yo and I) are out
several
> times a day moving everyone around so they all get a turn at the "good"
> pasture and the good hay and so noone has to be alone all the time.
But
> we have gotten into a routine with it, so it is not so bad.
>
> And Merry Morning is doing great!
>
> Thanks again,
> Warmly, Janice, wondering how Jim's paca girl is doing? Any news?
>

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[AlpacaTalk] Re: no climb fence

Hi Ridgley,

Welcome! Alpacas are not as sensitive to the shock of an electric
fence as their fleece provides protection (unless they use their
nose!). Unlike horses, alpacas generally don't challenge fences
(except sometimes hersires, and they usually weigh about 1000# less
than a horse) the hot wire is on the outside to keep predators out,
top for climbers and bottom for diggers.

Cheers,
Morgen Bowers
Dreamwood Farm
Claverack, NY
www.dreamwoodfarm.com

--- In AlpacaTalk@yahoogroups.com, "rollinridge" <rollinridge@...> wrote:
>
> Hi All,
> Newbie person here - I can't say "boo" about Alpacas (I'm in that
> researching stage so I'm lurking and too shy to ask questions) but at
> least I can put in my 2 cents about the fence since we have it with
> our horses and dogs. So - we have no climb with hot wire and
> extenders for our horses and dogs. (No climb also doesn't rust like
> the other fence) I uploaded a couple of pics in the photos to give a
> general idea of what we use it for. (You can see the fence squares
> and the yellow extenders of the hotwire). If you don't put the hot
> wire on it (we didn't in the beginning) our horses went looking for
> the "grass is always greener on the other side" and bent down the
> top. (As you can see). Our hot wire is solar charged and is "hot" -
> but hasn't killed anything. Definately bites if you touch it though.
> (My son used to be the tester when he was a stupid 10 year old - he
> thought it was funny). But we've never had any problem with anything
> coming in or out. Ok - my first question. The horses "feel" the
> electricity so they know to stay away - wouldn't the Alpacas? Or are
> you using it for the distinct purpose of on the outside keeping other
> things "out"?
>
> Ridgley
> Rollin'Ridge Farm
>
>
> --- In AlpacaTalk@yahoogroups.com, LunarStruck@ wrote:
> >
> > Our barn cat got shocked a few times and took off for parts
> unknown. That
> > may happen. Try and show your cats a safe way out of the hotwire
> if you can,
> > they are very smart. It definitely will not kill them, but can
> kill rabbits,
> > squirrels and birds. You can adjust it higher or lower voltage
> also, ours
> > is very hot. I've been shocked by it and it isn't pleasant but it
> doesn't do
> > any permanent damage, you get over it in a few seconds. I put up
> little tags
> > that I bought at the feedstore hotwire dept. to put on the fence
> to warn
> > people not to touch it. I bought plastic extenders to angle it
> out at the top
> > so the alpacas can't really reach it and nothing can jump over
> it. I'll
> > take a pic of ours to send you, Janice.
> >
> > I'd say in four years we've lost about 10 sparrows, which I hate
> but is a
> > trade-off considering we may have lost all the alpacas instead if
> we hadn't put
> > it up. I love it and it makes me feel really safe. As I said,
> the coyotes
> > totally avoid the area now and stopped going up their nightly path
> and took a
> > turn around our property. Most dog predators (and coyotes) will
> dig under a
> > fence instead of jumping over it so the bottom hotwire is very
> important.
> > In four years we have not had one problem with predators other
> than I ran out
> > in the middle of the night to a llama alarm call to find two
> possums on the
> > fenceline.
> >
> > SUSAN OLSON
> > Alpaca Loco
> > Riverside, CA
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 2/28/2009 4:26:39 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
> > houckj@ writes:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > <<<<To echo what has been already said here, no climb is so that
> horses
> > etc can't climb the fence. Actually, no climb fence helps those
> > predators that can't jump over or mash it down climb. It really is
> kind
> > of a misnomer as a lot of people assume no climb means nothing can
> climb
> > it and gives them a false sense of security.>>>
> >
> > Ahhh....that was my impression when my friend was telling me that
> they
> > had *finally* put up this no climb fence to keep the goats in and
> the
> > predators out. As I looked at it all I could think was that it
> looked
> > nice and sturdy enough for anything to climb over! She could not
> tell
> > me why it was no climb, but was very proud of it. I have been
> puzzled
> > by that misnomer ever since. Thanks for clearing it up.
> >
> > I am borrowing money (while I still can!) to fence and the more I
> look
> > into fencing the more confused I get as to what would be the best
> choice
> > - and the least expensive.
> >
> > The alpacas have done fine for 10 yrs with a cheap welded wire
> fence and
> > metal fence posts. No problems at all with them. It is not a
> perimeter
> > fence and they are close to the house. I am not fenced totally,
> but am
> > fenced across the front and down 1/2 of each side of the
> > property....property....<WBR>.where the alpacas are. And then
> their a
> > with this welded wire.
> >
> > But I have been having a lot of trouble with the horse fence and
> since
> > my husband died 2.5 yrs ago have had to pay someone to repair, add
> to,
> > and generally do everything we could think of short of starting
> all over
> > again, at least 4x now. The horses just push over everything.
> Mainly
> > because their pasture is dirt and they are trying to get to the
> grass
> > outside their fence. so I thought I would just start letting them
> out
> > to graze around for a few hours a day - and save on some hay
> expense.
> > It is a long way to find the end of the fence line. Took them
> maybe 2
> > wks tops to find it and before I knew it I was having to go get
> them off
> > the main road. I live on a one lane, but that wasn't good enough
> for
> > them, no they had to keep on trucking up to the main road. So they
> had
> > to go back into their dirt pasture.....to go back into their dirt
> > sitting here going to waste :-(.
> >
> > I have been told over and over and over to put hot wire up and
> that will
> > stop them. I haven't wanted to do it. susan's story about the dead
> > sparrows is enough to make me not want to do it; not to mention
> dogs,
> > cats, and children. And I have bluebird houses up all over the
> horse
> > pasture. But apparently that is about my only affordable choice.
> > Barbed wire has been suggested many times, but personally I jsut
> don't
> > see it keeping the horses back. I think they would still lean over
> it
> > and I would just be doctoring wounds all the time.
> >
> > I am also planning on getting some dairy goats and this fence will
> > continue from the horse fence up across the clearing and to the
> woods
> > for them. I keep looking at all the options and just cannot decide
> what
> > is the best, and again, least expensive best. This fence will also
> come
> > around and connect with a new alpacas area I am planning, so I can
> > rotate them off their pasture, and also make it easier to keep the
> male
> > separated. The goats will be with the horses in the day time, but
> with
> > the alpacas at night as that is as safer area - close to the
> house -
> > from predators.
> >
> > I seem to have narrowed it down to woven wire with electic wire
> top and
> > bottom or 5 strand wire with 3 hot - and I think that is the least
> > expensive and easiest. Now with these stories, I just don't know
> what
> > to do. I have a lot of ground to cover and cannot afford the high
> > tensile wire all the way around. Besides I know people with horses
> that
> > used that and they said it didn't slow them (the horses) down a
> > whit....only their pocketbooks (the owners), so I gather it is
> rather
> > expensive. Up in the woods it will be next to impossible to roll
> out a
> > large roll of woven or wire fence, so the 5 strand seemed the way
> to go,
> > but I know I will not find the time to constantly walk that fence
> line
> > to check it for shorts.
> >
> > What will electric wire do to cats? Will it kill them the first
> time
> > they touch it? Dogs? What about young children, or even older
> > children? If it is dangerous to these creatures I cannot use it.
> What
> > are my other (affordable) options for keeping goats and horses
> where
> > they belong and predators where *they* belong?
> >
> > Any thoughts, suggestions?
> >
> > Thanks! Janice
> > PS Is there a difference in the woven wire fence and the "no
> climb"
> > fence that is woven wire?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>

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Re: [AlpacaTalk] Re: Poisonous Plants

hi - here in the valley we have marsh marigold all through the fields -it is listed as poisonous but my alpacas don't touch it - they eat all around it - i do pull out all the bracken fern though as i don't trust the crias not to nibble.
Wendy
DreamWeaver Alpacas
BC
----- Original Message -----
From: rollinridge
To: AlpacaTalk@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2009 5:24 AM
Subject: [AlpacaTalk] Re: Poisonous Plants

Thanks Heather,
We're in NJ - and I believe it's "mountain laurel"? We've just been
very laid back with all of our other animals - never any problems.
And I certainly don't want any problems with Alpacas. But what
about what I read about a leaf of something blowing into their
field? We can't control what our neighbors have. Where we're already
fenced is narrow and cleared out (flat and sand from the horses, we
are planning on moving the horses and seed) but we have close
neighbors. But where we back up to acres of woods is where we had
hoped put more permanent fencing to expand (it's already wire fenced
for the horses) - that opens up but has alot of different plants &
grasses that I know NOTHING about. (My dh may though). I'll have to
take an ag rep with me to tell me what they all are (besides the
blueberry bushes).
Ridgley

--- In AlpacaTalk@yahoogroups.com, Heather Zeleny <alpacatalk@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi Ridgley,
> We haven't had any cases of plant poisonings, but we do make sure
to
> pull any weeds that we know are toxic, like tansy ragwort, for
example.
>
> What kind of Laurel do you have? Where are you located? It looks
like
> Great Laurel and Cherry Laurel (neither are true laurels) are
> poisonous. Indeed, any rhododendron species can be toxic,
especially
> that one used widely in California as an ornamental, but I don't
find
> it attractive at all...
>
> I just googled "laurel" and many plants called laurel are toxic,
> whether in the rhodie family or not! However, it appears that
true
> laurels are not poisonous.
>
> I would make sure to remove any toxic plants from pastures, and
cut
> back any branches that might grow over your fencelines into the
> pastures.
>
> Alpacas generally don't eat anything poisonous as long as they
have
> adequate forage and hay, but why take a chance?
>
>
> Heather
>
> Heather Zeleny
> White Lotus Alpacas
> Creswell, OR
>
> Holistic Farm and Elite Fleece
> http://www.whitelotusalpacas.com
> http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/AlpacaTalk/join
>
> On Mar 2, 2009, at 3:38 PM, rollinridge wrote:
>
> > Hi All,
> > Newbie question here. I am doing LOTS of research in hopes of
> > purchasing alpacas. My husband has had horses of and on all of
his
> > life, me for 14 years. (Though I rode for years as a kid). And
we've
> > competed and bred dogs for many years. We also have chickens. I
never
> > really thought twice before purchasing a horse - just did it. But
> > since Alpacas are so "different" I figured I better look into
them.
> > And boy am I finding out alot. I just finished reading "Caring fo
> > Llamas & Alpacas" by Clare Hoffman DVM. So - my qestion
concerning
> > poisionous plants. There is a long list of poisonous plants in
the
> > book. With our horses we have never had a problem with anything
> > poisionous. Of course, I could also be very ignorant to some of
the
> > plants on the list I did know about and we don't have those on
the
> > property. But some of the flowers - we have let the horses into
our
> > backyard to graze and they have stayed away from what they
shouldn't
> > eat. But - some of the others - we do have all around us that are
> > poisonous to Alpacas - such as laurel (we back up to woods) for
one.
> > I've read different message board posts about poisonings. Do
Alpacas
> > eat the poisonous plants they shouldn't-just becayse it's there?
Are
> > Alpacas really that sensitive that they die that easily from all
of
> > these plants? I don't mean to sound harsh if that is the way
this is
> > coming across - just trying to understand how to keep them
separated
> > out from detrimental environmental issues.
> > Thanks for any help.
> > Ridgley
> > Rollin'Ridge Farm
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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