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Monday, January 19, 2009

Re: [AlpacaTalk] Re: OT: tapeworms in dogs/cats

Janice - if it happens again, you can pour warm water on a frozen lip to get
it "unstuck". That is the safest method.

SUSAN OLSON
Alpaca Loco
Riverside, CA

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Re: [AlpacaTalk] RE: Fleas

Diatomaceous earth did not work for me on tapeworms in cats. Also, I never
put it directly on an animal or do more than a light sprinkle on their
bedding as it causes damage to the lungs if breathed in. I love the stuff for
flies, though - fed to horses and alpacas daily and put on the poo piles it
really decreases the amount of flies.

SUSAN OLSON
Alpaca Loco
Riverside, CA

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Re: [AlpacaTalk] Re: Supplies to keep on hand/shearing

Ah yes! I meant to respond in the shearing question, too!

Living in the south, you cannot not shear every year. If you don't,
you WILL lose animals to heat stress. Or at the very least you will
get sick animals. Shearing for alpacas isn't a personal choice. It is
absolutely mandatory.

Again, if it's difficult for your to find a shearer at a reasonable
rate, contact breeders near you for their advice, contacts, etc. See
if you can bring your animals to their farm on shearing day to keep
costs down for both farms. Maybe they have a trailer and can help
with transport.

Shearing is NOT optional. It is a requirement.

If you can't have them shorn by a shearer, many people hand shear
with Fiskars scissors, the spring loaded kind. Yes, they look like
hell afterward, but if you don't plan to show them at halter shows,
or show the fleece, this isn't really a concern. The fleece has to
come off when the weather starts hitting 65º or even 60º. Maybe even
cooler than that.

Please contact local breeders for help/advice/support.

Heather

On Jan 19, 2009, at 4:25 PM, Mary Jane Fox wrote:

> Hi Janice, In one of the posts I think I put links to the heaters
> ( $150)
> we use, and for the blankets,they have buckles around the chest and a
> belly band that attaches with velcro. Look at them.It is important to
> not put a blanket on a alpaca that has never had one on in a large
> space. I like to put them in a catch pen when I blanket, this way if
> they do start to panic we may have alittle more control of the
> situation, in fact catch pens are a very important part of alpaca
> handling.Much better than chasing them around.
> Shearing, well I think you found out what happens when you don't
> shear.
> Problems and more money being spent than you would pay for them to get
> shorn. Yes mid-June in GA is very late. Mid-June in Ohio is very late.
> You must either find another shearer or learn yourself, if in a
> bind you
> can always hand shear, you can contact me at fox.maryjane@gmail.com
> and
> we can talk more about that, the equipment alone is going to run you
> upwards of $500. Old is relative I guess when it comes to any living
> thing, but when deciding whether or not to shear your older animals, I
> judge the amount of fleece the animal grew the year before if they are
> growing only 1/2" to 1" per year it may not be necessary to shear
> every
> year. Some of the girls that are 10 and above and still having babies
> aren't growing much fleece. I think since these animals are living
> longer with the care we provide ,that we need to adjust our care
> accordingly to the new horizons.
> Do you wait for a shearing crew that does alpacas to come thru your
> area
> there has got to be someone coming thru earlier than that in GA.
> Try the
> alpacashearers yahoo groups ask if anyone gets to your area, or try to
> find a sheep shearer in your area it may not be pretty but they will
> survive. There is alot of shearing info on the web now especially if
> someone already knows the machine they just need to learn the
> techniques
> for shearing alpacas. Do a google search on alpaca shearing to see if
> there is anyone else who can help you. I start shearing in Ohio at the
> end of March so I am wondering why you wait so long into the spring to
> shear? I have the majority of my shearing done by Memorial day.
> When hosing off alpacas do not hose above the belly, legs, neck, under
> belly , between hind legs are all spots that regulate heat, if you
> hose
> off the blanket area, soaking it, you can actually cause a alpaca to
> overheat more because you stop the flow of air thru the fleece.
> Glad to help you out.
> Mary Jane Fox
> Up-Close-and-Personal-Alpaca-Shearing
> Kirtland, OH
> 216-272-8887

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[AlpacaTalk] Re: Supplies to keep on hand/shearing

Hi Janice, In one of the posts I think I put links to the heaters( $150)
we use, and for the blankets,they have buckles around the chest and a
belly band that attaches with velcro. Look at them.It is important to
not put a blanket on a alpaca that has never had one on in a large
space. I like to put them in a catch pen when I blanket, this way if
they do start to panic we may have alittle more control of the
situation, in fact catch pens are a very important part of alpaca
handling.Much better than chasing them around.
Shearing, well I think you found out what happens when you don't shear.
Problems and more money being spent than you would pay for them to get
shorn. Yes mid-June in GA is very late. Mid-June in Ohio is very late.
You must either find another shearer or learn yourself, if in a bind you
can always hand shear, you can contact me at fox.maryjane@gmail.com and
we can talk more about that, the equipment alone is going to run you
upwards of $500. Old is relative I guess when it comes to any living
thing, but when deciding whether or not to shear your older animals, I
judge the amount of fleece the animal grew the year before if they are
growing only 1/2" to 1" per year it may not be necessary to shear every
year. Some of the girls that are 10 and above and still having babies
aren't growing much fleece. I think since these animals are living
longer with the care we provide ,that we need to adjust our care
accordingly to the new horizons.
Do you wait for a shearing crew that does alpacas to come thru your area
there has got to be someone coming thru earlier than that in GA. Try the
alpacashearers yahoo groups ask if anyone gets to your area, or try to
find a sheep shearer in your area it may not be pretty but they will
survive. There is alot of shearing info on the web now especially if
someone already knows the machine they just need to learn the techniques
for shearing alpacas. Do a google search on alpaca shearing to see if
there is anyone else who can help you. I start shearing in Ohio at the
end of March so I am wondering why you wait so long into the spring to
shear? I have the majority of my shearing done by Memorial day.
When hosing off alpacas do not hose above the belly, legs, neck, under
belly , between hind legs are all spots that regulate heat, if you hose
off the blanket area, soaking it, you can actually cause a alpaca to
overheat more because you stop the flow of air thru the fleece.
Glad to help you out.
Mary Jane Fox
Up-Close-and-Personal-Alpaca-Shearing
Kirtland, OH
216-272-8887

--- In AlpacaTalk@yahoogroups.com, houckj@... wrote:
>
> <<<<Yogurt can be administered for a upset
> belly just like probias which is another product you can keep on hand,
> but remember to give these only if your vet says it is ok.
> Hope these ideas help.
>
> Mary Jane Fox>>>>
>
>
> Thanks Mary Jane for all your input. My problem is no vet to ask.
The
> one vet that would help me last summer with my girl's severe eye
injury
> made it very clear that she has all the horse business she can handle
> and is not at all interested in "learning a new species". The old cow
> vet I used to use was willing, but made so many mistakes and I lost so
> many I just stopped calling him and he has retired now (and I think
> moved to WY) anyway. The 2 other horse/cow vets (they are the only
ones
> that do farm calls) I have spoken to around here in the past several
> years are also not interested in working with alpacas. I had one tell
> me that he just didn't work with llama folks (there are no other
alpcas
> around here that I know of) because they "always expect me to come
right
> away and are just unreasonable in their expectation". OhhhKay.
>
> But as a people nutritionist I cannot imagine why giving yogurt or
> probiotics could be a problem or a question for a vet? My qustion
> rather would be how do we know it is getting to the areas where it is
> needed? I don't know a thing about the physiology of the gut in
> ruminants (heck I'm still wondering just how many stomachs do they
> have?). I know in humans the trick to supplementing with probiotics
is
> to get the live little critters to survive the stomach acid and get to
> the intestines where they are needed.
>
> I'd like to discuss shearing with you and anyone else that has done
> their own. For one, I simply can no longer afford to pay the shearer!
> I skipped year before last for that reason and it was a miserable hot
> summer that found me out 2x every single day soaking them down with
the
> hose and buying a $300 fan for them (I could have had them sheared for
> that amt of $$, but by then it was too late).
> And still I had one to lay down and die after giving birth - don't
know
> if it was heat stress but that is what I suspect. So I bit the bullet
> last year and had them sheared. I couldn't afford it then; even less
so
> this year. They don't have much of a coat now, but by summer they
will.
> We still have chilly nights up thru May, tho it can get quite hot
> during the day. So I usually have him come close to the end of May;
> last year it was mid-June and vrey very hot before he could get to me.
>
>
> <<<<I do some shearing here and have started to on the older girls
that do
> not grow fleece, some farms have me leave 1/2 inch on them so I just
tip>>>>
>
> How old? My oldest girl is about 10. What is considered old for an
> alpaca? When is she too old to safely reproduce? What is the average
> expected life span? My dd asked me just last night and I didn't have
a
> clue as to their aging process or their life span. Are you tipping
with
> electric shears?
>
>
> <<<<I use
> the dog blankets to put on the animals if they are having difficulty
> keeping themselves warm. Takes alittle bit of time for some animals
that
> have never had one on to get use to them. But they cover the chest and
> back areas great.>>>>
>
> Do you tie them somehow to keep them on? I can't quite picture an
> alpaca walking around with a blanket draped over it without shaking it
off.
>
>
> Sorry for all the questions. I am on a mission to get this right once
> and for all so I can move on to other things that need my attention as
well.
>
> Thanks! Janice
>

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Re: [AlpacaTalk] Re: female crias

I am in complete agreement with everything you said, Rachelle. Also,
it is possible to put up a relatively inexpensive fence with T-posts
and cattle panels. NOT hog panels! You need the 5 foot high cattle
panels.

We have had males who fought so much with others that we had to
actually pen them in a stall and only a 10x20 exterior pen. That was
only for extreme cases, but the males who were confined were fine.

We never never stall or pasture our males and females together. Once
male crias are weaned, they go in the weanling boys' pasture. We've
had an 8 month old weanling successfully breed an 8 month old female
back in the day when we believed what we were told., that males can't
breed until at least 18 months....

I also have NEVER heard of any breeder putting a female with a sire
the day after she delivers. A minimum of 14 days after delivery is,
well, the minimum. And then only if she's receptive at that time. If
she refuses at all, we try again after two or three days. The average
time of rebreeding after delivery is 21 days, but actually the range
of receptivity is 14-28 days, sometimes even more.

And I do have to agree with Rachelle about the financial question.
Certain minimum standards must be kept. One is keeping males separate
from females. even geldings. Geldings can and will breed females and
since those breedings never produce a fertilized ova, the female
never gets pregnant and is subject to serious overbreeding and
infection. The act of a male breeding a female literally tears up the
uterine lining. The ferttilized ova implants after approximately 17
after breeding occurs. Too many breedings will keep the uterine
lining always raw, and infection is likely. Scarring is certain. That
could also be a reason for the poor production you've experienced,
the uterine lining is so scarred that it can't support a healthy
cria. I realise "production" is not your concern here, but certainly
your girls' health and well being is.

Again, please look up your local AOBA affiliate for local support!
I'm almost certain you have other alpaca breeders in your area. You
really do need to reach out to them. Most breeders are happy to help
and answer questions.

Best wishes,
Heather

On Jan 19, 2009, at 9:48 AM, Wyatt Black wrote:

>
> Hi Janice,
> I wrote my email yesterday without seeing this one first. I will
> attempt to address your points one at a time, okay? Please, other
> knowledgeable breeders on this site, back me up on this.
>
> you wrote:
> ---------------------
> Thanks for your reply Rachelle. And yes i have to say that all mine
> are
> together.....I have so few left - only 2 females, one stud, and one
> gelding that in order to separate them someone would have to be alone
> and I don't think that would go over very big with the one left alone.
> Plus, I only have hay in one place and water in the other place;
> and tho
> I have 2 separated pastures (what a joke calling that space a
> "pasture"
> is!) they are both small and my guys like to have room to roam
> about....as I'm sure they all do. The woods (for shade) are in one
> area
> and the hay/loafing shed is in the other. So not really a good set up
> right now. Since I've not before had a female cria it has not been an
> issue up to now.
> ----------------------------------------
> I say:
> Janice,
> separate them. The gelding with the male and the girls with the
> cria. I know MANY ranches who keep their breeding studs in very
> small 'pastures' and they are just fine as long as there are not
> too many males crowded into one tiny space. We have two studs
> together in a small pen and then we have our two bachelor runs for
> the rest.
> Buy an EZ up and a large tarp. Secure the EZ up firmly in the
> ground with stakes and cover all three sides and the roof with the
> tarp. Stretch it tightly to prevent flapping and use bungee cords
> to secure it. Lay down a thick bed of straw inside and that will be
> good enough for now.
>
> You wrote:
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> "Also what my understanding is is that once a female is pregnant, the
> male no longer has any interest - something about the hormonal change
> signaling that she is no longer open. My males (I've only had 2 not
> gelded so I am far from knowledgeable) have never tried repeatedly to
> mate. I see them chasing/mating for a few days and then see no more of
> that activity for a very long time. If I see it again after a
> number of
> months, I assume a fetus was lost and they are trying again. And I
> also
> did not think a male would be interested in/attracted to a female who
> was not "receptive"?"
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> I say:
> I would ask, are you there all the time, I mean- ALL the time? do
> you watch them all night? Often breeding behavior goes on in the
> middle of the night when no one is watching. I know that's when my
> boys will often work over the younger males in the pen. I have had
> to break up a few male 'rapes' in the middle of the night in my time.
>
> Yes, they will breed all throughout the pregnancy. The drive to
> breed will overide the knowledge that she is bred already if they
> are together. I would venture a guess that they are breeding FAR
> more often than what you are seeing. And the stud, if left alone
> with a female over long periods of time, will at some point not
> take no for an answer and WILL force the female down.
>
> You wrote:
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
> "So that was my question, at what age would a young female start
> producing the pheromones that signal the male that she is "ready"?"
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> I say:
> A male doesn't need a female to 'be ready'. They can/will attempt
> to breed anything they can overpower. And if it is a female, all
> the better.
> Your cria is at risk at one month of age. The hormones can be there
> or not. If the male wants to breed and can get the cria down, he
> will. And he will probably kill her in the process.
>
> You wrote:
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> "Well I could put the male and the gelding together in one pasture,
> but
> they are mixing it up way too often for my likes, and confined to a
> smaller area I fear it would get worse. My gelding, who had the
> terrible slash wounds on his neck this summer, had a ripped up ear
> a few
> weeks ago. I know that came for those 2 mixing it up. Funny, he is so
> much bigger than the stud, but he always seems to be the one with the
> injury. So that leaves me with leaving the stud all alone, which I
> have
> been told a thousand times is extremely stressful to alpacas - to be
> without their herd/buddies, *and* leaving the gelding in with the
> girls
> which you also say not to do."
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> I say:
> Have you had your stud's fighting teeth trimmed lately? He could
> seriously injure someone with those teeth!
> If your stud is on the same fenceline as the other alpacas, he will
> not be alone. He will pace, he will hum, and he will be stressed
> for a while. But he will adjust eventually as he sees that he can
> touch noses with everyone. I think you have created a monster. He
> believes the girls are "his" because he has been with them all the
> time. So he will fight any male in the same area with him to
> "protect" his girls.
> You can try leaving the gelding with the girls. If he was gelded
> early in life and didn't have the experience of breeding at all, he
> probably won't. I have my gelded llama boy in with my mommas and
> crias. He is the perfect nanny/watchdog and has never tried to
> breed. He was gelded early and never bred before.
>
> You wrote:
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> " I certainly have not had a glut of
> crias! I usually seem to get one about every 2 yrs or so. I never see
> any excessive mating or chasing going on, in fact see it rarely."
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
> I say:
> Janice, I am going to say some things here that might seem harsh. I
> want you to know that I do NOT say them to hurt you, only to try
> and convey the seriousness of the situation as I see it.
> As I remember, you have not had a thriving cria yet, right? I think
> it's because of the situation you have put your females in. Your
> males 'moaning and miserable' without their girls is just good
> breeding practices.
>
> Alpacas cost money. If you don't have the money to adequately care
> for them, then perhaps it is time to re-evaluate the situation.
> Regular vet checks, reproductive exams and fighting teeth removal
> are just good breeding practices. Keeping your males and females
> separated is just sound breeding practice.
> If you don't adhere to good breeding protocols you can expect the
> kind of results you are seeing.
>
> Believe me, please do, I know first hand how difficult it is. Times
> are tough, and money is short. In our ten years breeding we have
> never had an excess of money! In fact, we jokingly call our little
> ranch "Alpacas on a Shoestring" because that's how broke we've been
> over the years. 3 layoffs, and my husband now working for a 68% pay
> cut have put our backs to the wall many times. But we found a
> wonderful vet who will allow is to keep a running tab, and as long
> as we are paying a tiny amount every month, we are fine. Right now
> the tab is down to only $800! Which I am sure means we will have an
> emergency right around the corner.
> Alpacas cost money.
>
> We know that all too well, because right now I have 2/3 of my
> precious herd for sale because we cannot afford to care for them
> properly. Re-evaluation indeed. Our philosophy has always been
> this: When you become a steward of something that cannot speak for
> itself, and is totally dependant on you for it's existence- you are
> obligated to provide the appropriate level of care that comes with
> such a serious responsibility.
>
> So, we have to sell in order to fulfill that obligation. Sad, yes.
> Necessary for my alpacas health and future, yes.
>
> Somewhere though I can't find it right now I read that you wrote
> about 'big breeders' who breed their females the day after birthing.
> Janice, in my 10 years of breeding and traveling all over the
> country and speaking to thousands of breeders in my volunteer
> alpaca committee work, I have *never*, *ever* heard of a reputable
> alpaca breeder doing this. It just isn't good business. It can
> cause problems with the female that cost money and can shorten her
> productivity. Who would do that?
> You can hear all sorts of stuff out there. I have heard horrible
> things that some people have done, but they are not *established
> breeding protocol* and any breeder with some integrity will shudder.
>
> Sure they do it in the wild, but they also have an over 50%
> mortality rate! Something I do not want as a breeder who invested a
> LOT of money in my herd.
>
> I know you love your alpacas, it is apparent that you do in
> everything you write. And you have hard choices ahead. I am sure
> you will find a way to do the right thing for your treasures.
> If you ever need anything, please know that I am here for you.
> Best of luck,
> Rachelle
> Black Magic Alpaca Ranch
> Honesty, Integrity, Quality
> Wyatt & Rachelle Black
> P.O. Box 457
> 6500 Digier Road
> Lebec, CA
> 93243
> (661-248-6568)
> wyattblack@earthlink.net
> http://pasturemusings.blogspot.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Re: [AlpacaTalk] Re: female crias

Hi Janice,
I am more of a lurker but am in total agreement with everything Rachelle
said. I would try leaving the gelding in with the girls as a last resort,
and if the stud is that bad with the gelding put him in a pasture alone. I
have visited other farms that had to put their stud alone with a fence
between them and the girls and they were fine. I have a gelding that I am
able to put in with my girls when necessary but, like Rachelle said, not
all geldings can be trusted.

Shirley Dillon

Alpacas of Gemini Farm
Basking Ridge, NJ 07920

www.alpacanation.com/geminifarm.asp
908-647-2995

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wyatt Black" <wyattblack@earthlink.net>
To: <alpacatalk@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 19, 2009 12:48 PM
Subject: [AlpacaTalk] Re: female crias

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Re: [AlpacaTalk] RE: Colostrum supplement

Janice - don't worry about getting the IgG test - it is absolutely useless
on a healthy cria and probably on sick ones too. I would run normal bloodwork
instead. It has been proven in horses that low IgG foals do just as well as
high IgG foals. I don't run them anymore.

SUSAN OLSON
Alpaca Loco
Riverside, CA

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Re: [AlpacaTalk] Re: female crias

Hi all and Janice,

We too have our two studs and gelding in a pasture that has a joining
fence with the female/cria pasture. We have never had a problem with pacing,
humming, etc. because this is always how its been. Please try to separate
your herd with males in one pasture, females in the other. It is pretty
inexpensive to do it yourself - get the 5'-6' green metal rods and 2" x 2" welded
wire fencing and set up a divider for the boys. You won't be sorry, I
promise.

SUSAN

In a message dated 1/19/2009 9:48:59 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
wyattblack@earthlink.net writes:

Hi Janice,
I wrote my email yesterday without seeing this one first. I will attempt to
address your points one at a time, okay? Please, other knowledgeable breeders
on this site, back me up on this.

you wrote:
---------------------
Thanks for your reply Rachelle. And yes i have to say that all mine are
together....together....<WBR>.I have so few left - only 2 females, o
gelding that in order to separate them someone would have to be alone
and I don't think that would go over very big with the one left alone.
Plus, I only have hay in one place and water in the other place; and tho
I have 2 separated pastures (what a joke calling that space a "pasture"
is!) they are both small and my guys like to have room to roam
about....as I'm sure they all do. The woods (for shade) are in one area
and the hay/loafing shed is in the other. So not really a good set up
right now. Since I've not before had a female cria it has not been an
issue up to now.
----------------------------------------
I say:
Janice,
separate them. The gelding with the male and the girls with the cria. I know
MANY ranches who keep their breeding studs in very small 'pastures' and they
are just fine as long as there are not too many males crowded into one tiny
space. We have two studs together in a small pen and then we have our two
bachelor runs for the rest.
Buy an EZ up and a large tarp. Secure the EZ up firmly in the ground with
stakes and cover all three sides and the roof with the tarp. Stretch it tightly
to prevent flapping and use bungee cords to secure it. Lay down a thick bed
of straw inside and that will be good enough for now.

You wrote:
----------------------------------------------------------
"Also what my understanding is is that once a female is pregnant, the
male no longer has any interest - something about the hormonal change
signaling that she is no longer open. My males (I've only had 2 not
gelded so I am far from knowledgeable) have never tried repeatedly to
mate. I see them chasing/mating for a few days and then see no more of
that activity for a very long time. If I see it again after a number of
months, I assume a fetus was lost and they are trying again. And I also
did not think a male would be interested in/attracted to a female who
was not "receptive"?w
----------------------------------------------------------
I say:
I would ask, are you there all the time, I mean- ALL the time? do you watch
them all night? Often breeding behavior goes on in the middle of the night
when no one is watching. I know that's when my boys will often work over the
younger males in the pen. I have had to break up a few male 'rapes' in the
middle of the night in my time.

Yes, they will breed all throughout the pregnancy. The drive to breed will
overide the knowledge that she is bred already if they are together. I would
venture a guess that they are breeding FAR more often than what you are
seeing. And the stud, if left alone with a female over long periods of time, will
at some point not take no for an answer and WILL force the female down.

You wrote:
----------------------------------------------------------

"So that was my question, at what age would a young female start
producing the pheromones that signal the male that she is "ready"?"
----------------------------------------------------------
I say:
A male doesn't need a female to 'be ready'. They can/will attempt to breed
anything they can overpower. And if it is a female, all the better.
Your cria is at risk at one month of age. The hormones can be there or not.
If the male wants to breed and can get the cria down, he will. And he will
probably kill her in the process.

You wrote:
----------------------------------------------------------
"Well I could put the male and the gelding together in one pasture, but
they are mixing it up way too often for my likes, and confined to a
smaller area I fear it would get worse. My gelding, who had the
terrible slash wounds on his neck this summer, had a ripped up ear a few
weeks ago. I know that came for those 2 mixing it up. Funny, he is so
much bigger than the stud, but he always seems to be the one with the
injury. So that leaves me with leaving the stud all alone, which I have
been told a thousand times is extremely stressful to alpacas - to be
without their herd/buddies, *and* leaving the gelding in with the girls
which you also say not to do."
----------------------------------------------------------
I say:
Have you had your stud's fighting teeth trimmed lately? He could seriously
injure someone with those teeth!
If your stud is on the same fenceline as the other alpacas, he will not be
alone. He will pace, he will hum, and he will be stressed for a while. But he
will adjust eventually as he sees that he can touch noses with everyone. I
think you have created a monster. He believes the girls are "his" because he
has been with them all the time. So he will fight any male in the same area
with him to "protect" his girls.
You can try leaving the gelding with the girls. If he was gelded early in
life and didn't have the experience of breeding at all, he probably won't. I
have my gelded llama boy in with my mommas and crias. He is the perfect
nanny/watchdog and has never tried to breed. He was gelded early and never bred
before.

You wrote:
----------------------------------------------------------
" I certainly have not had a glut of
crias! I usually seem to get one about every 2 yrs or so. I never see
any excessive mating or chasing going on, in fact see it rarely."
----------------------------------------------------------

I say:
Janice, I am going to say some things here that might seem harsh. I want you
to know that I do NOT say them to hurt you, only to try and convey the
seriousness of the situation as I see it.
As I remember, you have not had a thriving cria yet, right? I think it's
because of the situation you have put your females in. Your males 'moaning and
miserable' without their girls is just good breeding practices.

Alpacas cost money. If you don't have the money to adequately care for them,
then perhaps it is time to re-evaluate the situation. Regular vet checks,
reproductive exams and fighting teeth removal are just good breeding practices.
Keeping your males and females separated is just sound breeding practice.
If you don't adhere to good breeding protocols you can expect the kind of
results you are seeing.

Believe me, please do, I know first hand how difficult it is. Times are
tough, and money is short. In our ten years breeding we have never had an excess
of money! In fact, we jokingly call our little ranch "Alpacas on a
Shoestring" because that's how broke we've been over the years. 3 layoffs, and my
husband now working for a 68% pay cut have put our backs to the wall many times.
But we found a wonderful vet who will allow is to keep a running tab, and as
long as we are paying a tiny amount every month, we are fine. Right now the
tab is down to only $800! Which I am sure means we will have an emergency right
around the corner.
Alpacas cost money.

We know that all too well, because right now I have 2/3 of my precious herd
for sale because we cannot afford to care for them properly. Re-evaluation
indeed. Our philosophy has always been this: When you become a steward of
something that cannot speak for itself, and is totally dependant on you for it's
existence- you are obligated to provide the appropriate level of care that
comes with such a serious responsibility.

So, we have to sell in order to fulfill that obligation. Sad, yes. Necessary
for my alpacas health and future, yes.

Somewhere though I can't find it right now I read that you wrote about 'big
breeders' who breed their females the day after birthing.
Janice, in my 10 years of breeding and traveling all over the country and
speaking to thousands of breeders in my volunteer alpaca committee work, I have
*never*, *ever* heard of a reputable alpaca breeder doing this. It just
isn't good business. It can cause problems with the female that cost money and
can shorten her productivity. Who would do that?
You can hear all sorts of stuff out there. I have heard horrible things that
some people have done, but they are not *established breeding protocol* and
any breeder with some integrity will shudder.

Sure they do it in the wild, but they also have an over 50% mortality rate!
Something I do not want as a breeder who invested a LOT of money in my herd.

I know you love your alpacas, it is apparent that you do in everything you
write. And you have hard choices ahead. I am sure you will find a way to do
the right thing for your treasures.
If you ever need anything, please know that I am here for you.
Best of luck,
Rachelle
Black Magic Alpaca Ranch
Honesty, Integrity, Quality
Wyatt & Rachelle Black
P.O. Box 457
6500 Digier Road
Lebec, CA
93243
(661-248-6568)
_wyattblack@earthlinwyatt_ (mailto:wyattblack@earthlink.net)
_http://pasturemusinhttp://pastuhtt_ (http://pasturemusings.blogspot.com/)

4a.
Re: female crias
Posted by: "_houckj@aol.com_ (mailto:houckj@aol.com) " _houckj@aol.com_
(mailto:houckj@aol.com)
Sat Jan 17, 2009 2:09 pm (PST)
<<<<Hi Janice,
Do I understand correctly, you have the momma and her little girl and
the stud all together?
Wow, I would separate them right away. Not only can you run the risk of
a uterine infection on momma if she is bred too early after birthing (or
too often), but the stud can continue to breed her right up through her
pregnancy and then you run the risk of possibly injuring the fetus,
causing premature labor, and a whole host of other troubles- including
permanent injury to the female.
And, it is very possible the male will try to breed the little girl if
the momma is adamant about refusing him and that could kill her.

Your male could be sweet as honey but he is still a male and driven to
reproduce, he won't hesitate to breed his daughter or think about her age.

I don't mean to scare you, and I know people do field breed- but they
remove the male after the female is confirmed pregnant.
Get a nice gelded llama who has been with girls and a gelding for your
boy and keep them apart. Just better all around I think.
Slainte~
Rachelle>>>>

<<<<I have to agree. I meant to respond to this point. We NEVER haver
adult males in with females, except when we walk them from the boys'
pasture to the girls' pasture for hand breeding. Then we take the
sire back home again immediately after.

Your male pasture doesn't need to be huge, especially if it's just
for one or two males, but they do need to be separated from the
females. It's not even advisable to house geldings with females, as
they can breed open females and since she won't get pregnant, will
over breed and can cause serious uterine damage, infection, or worse.

Best of luck!
Heather>>>>

I will take what you both have said to heart, but right now there is not
really much that is acceptable that I can do to separate them. I have
planned and hoped to fence another connected area this spring....but
that was so I could rotate them off the only bit of green pasture they
have in the summer, and which is overgrazed and I am sure totally
infested. So that still won't solve the dilemma of needing to separate
them. Maybe when I have more that would be more feasible, but with only
4 (and 1/2) it is just lonely.

I have given some consideration to Rachael's suggestion of getting a
guard llama for protection, but if he/she is separated from part of the
herd, not much use as a guard. Can't really afford more to take care of
and feed right now anyway.

So the question remains....if the ideal cannot be done separating all
males and females, at what age would Merry become attractive to her papa?

any more input guys?
Thanks! Janice

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