Free Alpacas Newsletter- How to Profit from Alpaca Farming

Sunday, January 18, 2009

Re: [AlpacaTalk] RE: Fleas

Got to be something that grows locally. Maybe I'll try to figure how to put a 'kitty camera' on Toby's collar so I can see where he goes and what he eats! ;-) JUDITH

Heather Zeleny wrote:
> If you ever do find out, please tell us! I'd love an herbal tapeworm
> treatment/preventat ive!
> Heather
> On Jan 18, 2009, at 8:52 AM, Judith Korff/Ladysong Farm wrote:
>> I wish I knew what plant or herb my cats get into come spring
>> because every year we go through problems with tapeworm all winter
>> but they disappear shortly after the weather warms up and the land
>> greens. They obviously get into something natural that takes care
>> of the worms 'cause we don't see them again until mid-
>> winter. JUDITH KORFF, LADYSONG SURIS, RANDOLPH, NY (working from
>> PDA so no normal sig block)
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

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Re: [AlpacaTalk] RE: Fleas

Got to be something that grows locally. Maybe I'll try to figure how to put a 'kitty camera' on Toby's collar so I can see where he goes and what he eats! ;-) JUDITH

Heather Zeleny wrote:
> If you ever do find out, please tell us! I'd love an herbal tapeworm
> treatment/preventat ive!
> Heather
> On Jan 18, 2009, at 8:52 AM, Judith Korff/Ladysong Farm wrote:
>> I wish I knew what plant or herb my cats get into come spring
>> because every year we go through problems with tapeworm all winter
>> but they disappear shortly after the weather warms up and the land
>> greens. They obviously get into something natural that takes care
>> of the worms 'cause we don't see them again until mid-
>> winter. JUDITH KORFF, LADYSONG SURIS, RANDOLPH, NY (working from
>> PDA so no normal sig block)
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

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Free Alpacas Newsletter- How to Profit from Alpaca Farming

Re: [AlpacaTalk] RE: Fleas

You might ask Tina Hodge of Eagle Peak Herbals. She's very good!

Sheri
Woodland Meadows,llc
Creswell, OR 97426

At 11:07 AM 1/18/2009, you wrote:

>If you ever do find out, please tell us! I'd love an herbal tapeworm
>treatment/preventative!
>
>Heather
>
>On Jan 18, 2009, at 8:52 AM, Judith Korff/Ladysong Farm wrote:
>
> > I wish I knew what plant or herb my cats get into come spring
> > because every year we go through problems with tapeworm all winter
> > but they disappear shortly after the weather warms up and the land
> > greens. They obviously get into something natural that takes care
> > of the worms 'cause we don't see them again until mid-
> > winter. JUDITH KORFF, LADYSONG SURIS, RANDOLPH, NY (working from
> > PDA so no normal sig block)
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Re: [AlpacaTalk] RE: Fleas

If you ever do find out, please tell us! I'd love an herbal tapeworm
treatment/preventative!

Heather

On Jan 18, 2009, at 8:52 AM, Judith Korff/Ladysong Farm wrote:

> I wish I knew what plant or herb my cats get into come spring
> because every year we go through problems with tapeworm all winter
> but they disappear shortly after the weather warms up and the land
> greens. They obviously get into something natural that takes care
> of the worms 'cause we don't see them again until mid-
> winter. JUDITH KORFF, LADYSONG SURIS, RANDOLPH, NY (working from
> PDA so no normal sig block)

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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RE: [AlpacaTalk] RE: Fleas

I wish I knew what plant or herb my cats get into come spring because every year we go through problems with tapeworm all winter but they disappear shortly after the weather warms up and the land greens. They obviously get into something natural that takes care of the worms 'cause we don't see them again until mid-winter. JUDITH KORFF, LADYSONG SURIS, RANDOLPH, NY (working from PDA so no normal sig block)

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Re: [AlpacaTalk] RE: Fleas

Sorry, 100 lbs for the dogs with the 1/2 teaspoon. small dogs would go by 1/8's in weight, for a really bad case use on a 100lb dog 1/2 teaspoon DE and a 1/8 teaspoon yellow sulpher internally on food is easiest, this will clear the path for the daily DE food add;)

june Neill

http://iherdalpacas.etsy.com/
http://iherdalpacas.blogspot.com/

----- Original Message -----
From: june neill
To: AlpacaTalk@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, January 18, 2009 12:29 PM
Subject: Re: [AlpacaTalk] RE: Fleas

1/2 teaspoon of foodgrade DE into food daily(and this is very important) will keep the stomach ph at about 7, perfect to rid of all worms as they cannot live in this enviroment. Dust the outside of the animal with 50/50 DE and yellow sulpher kills everything;) yes it will give the impression of very dry skin but will bath out and bring the skin and hair back to normal;) or will eventually shake and wear off.

june Neill

http://iherdalpacas.etsy.com/
http://iherdalpacas.blogspot.com/

----- Original Message -----
From: houckj@aol.com
To: AlpacaTalk@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, January 18, 2009 12:04 PM
Subject: [AlpacaTalk] RE: Fleas

<<<<Ah-ha! How I've battled fleas!

First thing is you need to get rid of the fleas or you're only
fighting an endless battle.

Twenty Mule Team Borax (a laundry soap) is excellent -- and non-
toxic! -- way to rid house of fleas. Sprinkle it liberally
everywhere the house pets sleep and/or rest...that means carpets,
furniture, and beds. Vacuum 24 to 36 hours later and throw dirt into
plastic bag tied at top and placed in trash container away from
house. Do not ever leave dirt in vacuum; fleas will get out.
Reapply the Borax in the house. The Borax dehydrates the fleas and
you shouldn't have to reapply after the second time for at least a
year unless you shampoo your carpet.>>>>

As I was reading this I was already wording my reply to let you know
that DE does the same thing.....I used to use it in my house before the
flea treatments came out that we have today - Frontline and Advantage.
But, ugh, what a mess.
Then I got to the next paragraph :-). So why are you not just using DE
in house as well, instead of the Borax? I am pretty sure somewhere
along the way I have read/heard that Borax is toxic. But if not and if
it is less expensive, which I am sure it must be, then why not use that
outside as well, where the cats lie, etc. I wouldn't waste it outside
where the rain and dew will wash it away, but do think I should be
sprinkling it around in the barn loft where they sleep. It doesn't
actually dehydrate the adult fleas tho, just the larvae......fleas have
a very hard body that the DE doesn't affect. So there is a lag time
between sprinkling that around and seeing any improvement....the adult
fleas have to die on their own. Perhaps an Advantage/Frontline
treatment and sprinkling of the DE at the same time would be the best
attack plan. I have wondered about rubbing the animal down with DE, but
worry about how much that would dry out their skin so have never tried
that. With the cats, they would lick it off and so get their internal
worming taken care at the same time!

<<<Outside I would sprinkle DE liberally where the cats spend the most
time and where the indoor pets might lie (garden, door mats, etc).
Then I would add DE to the food of all the cats and dog. (Someone
else will have to tell you how much because I haven't used it, but
have heard it works well.)

Yes, the medication is expensive. The DE should work, too, and
shouldn't be as hard on the older animals' systems.

And actually once you get rid of the fleas so the animals aren't
being constantly re-infected their strong bodies should get rid of
the tapes over the course of time.>>>>

The tapeworm med, not matter what it is, even the OTC Safeguard for
dogs, IS expensive and you are right, it is a vicious cycle. I keep
putting that expensive Advantage or Frontline on him to treat for fleas.
Still he has fleas And tapes; haven't thought lately about using DE
*on* him. The more I think about it, the more sense that makes. Put DE
on him, sprinkle around in the barn loft where the outside cats sleep
and in the rugs where the dog sleeps inside and start adding some DE to
his food as well.....I wonder how much, someone here posted not too long
ago how much they give each of their animals, I am pretty sure I saved
that post, will have to try and find it - he is about 100#, getting on
in years. Then watch and wait before treating with the chemical tape
wormer. On the other hand, I hate thinking about him carrying this tape
load for so long. It can't be doing a thing good for his health, esp at
this age. But as much as we have been talking about DE here off and on
this year, it has only just now occurred to me that DE should be
effective internally against tapes as they are clearly a soft bodied creepy.

<<<<Hope this helps -
Cinda Young
Driwind Alpacas>>>>

Absolutely, thanks Cinda.
Warmly, Janice, still waiting for my DE to come in.

PS, there used to be a product for killing fleas outside, may still be
around, haven't really looked for it in a long time. It was dehydrated
organisms (can't remember what it was exactly) that you rehydrate in
your hose end sprayer and apply to your yard. They (the little
rehydrated critters) specifically eat flea larvae. I don't know how
effective it was/is as I have such a large "yard" that it was not
feasible for me to use, but it was supposed to be extremely effective
for about 3 mos as I recall.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

__._,_.___
Message posts are the opinion of individuals posting and are not necessarily endorsed or approved by Yahoo! or the moderator of this group. The purpose of this discussion group is to ensure that all points of view can be aired. It is the responsbilty of all individuals who post to treat others with respect and civility.
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Free Alpacas Newsletter- How to Profit from Alpaca Farming

Re: [AlpacaTalk] RE: Fleas

1/2 teaspoon of foodgrade DE into food daily(and this is very important) will keep the stomach ph at about 7, perfect to rid of all worms as they cannot live in this enviroment. Dust the outside of the animal with 50/50 DE and yellow sulpher kills everything;) yes it will give the impression of very dry skin but will bath out and bring the skin and hair back to normal;) or will eventually shake and wear off.

june Neill

http://iherdalpacas.etsy.com/
http://iherdalpacas.blogspot.com/

----- Original Message -----
From: houckj@aol.com
To: AlpacaTalk@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, January 18, 2009 12:04 PM
Subject: [AlpacaTalk] RE: Fleas

<<<<Ah-ha! How I've battled fleas!

First thing is you need to get rid of the fleas or you're only
fighting an endless battle.

Twenty Mule Team Borax (a laundry soap) is excellent -- and non-
toxic! -- way to rid house of fleas. Sprinkle it liberally
everywhere the house pets sleep and/or rest...that means carpets,
furniture, and beds. Vacuum 24 to 36 hours later and throw dirt into
plastic bag tied at top and placed in trash container away from
house. Do not ever leave dirt in vacuum; fleas will get out.
Reapply the Borax in the house. The Borax dehydrates the fleas and
you shouldn't have to reapply after the second time for at least a
year unless you shampoo your carpet.>>>>

As I was reading this I was already wording my reply to let you know
that DE does the same thing.....I used to use it in my house before the
flea treatments came out that we have today - Frontline and Advantage.
But, ugh, what a mess.
Then I got to the next paragraph :-). So why are you not just using DE
in house as well, instead of the Borax? I am pretty sure somewhere
along the way I have read/heard that Borax is toxic. But if not and if
it is less expensive, which I am sure it must be, then why not use that
outside as well, where the cats lie, etc. I wouldn't waste it outside
where the rain and dew will wash it away, but do think I should be
sprinkling it around in the barn loft where they sleep. It doesn't
actually dehydrate the adult fleas tho, just the larvae......fleas have
a very hard body that the DE doesn't affect. So there is a lag time
between sprinkling that around and seeing any improvement....the adult
fleas have to die on their own. Perhaps an Advantage/Frontline
treatment and sprinkling of the DE at the same time would be the best
attack plan. I have wondered about rubbing the animal down with DE, but
worry about how much that would dry out their skin so have never tried
that. With the cats, they would lick it off and so get their internal
worming taken care at the same time!

<<<Outside I would sprinkle DE liberally where the cats spend the most
time and where the indoor pets might lie (garden, door mats, etc).
Then I would add DE to the food of all the cats and dog. (Someone
else will have to tell you how much because I haven't used it, but
have heard it works well.)

Yes, the medication is expensive. The DE should work, too, and
shouldn't be as hard on the older animals' systems.

And actually once you get rid of the fleas so the animals aren't
being constantly re-infected their strong bodies should get rid of
the tapes over the course of time.>>>>

The tapeworm med, not matter what it is, even the OTC Safeguard for
dogs, IS expensive and you are right, it is a vicious cycle. I keep
putting that expensive Advantage or Frontline on him to treat for fleas.
Still he has fleas And tapes; haven't thought lately about using DE
*on* him. The more I think about it, the more sense that makes. Put DE
on him, sprinkle around in the barn loft where the outside cats sleep
and in the rugs where the dog sleeps inside and start adding some DE to
his food as well.....I wonder how much, someone here posted not too long
ago how much they give each of their animals, I am pretty sure I saved
that post, will have to try and find it - he is about 100#, getting on
in years. Then watch and wait before treating with the chemical tape
wormer. On the other hand, I hate thinking about him carrying this tape
load for so long. It can't be doing a thing good for his health, esp at
this age. But as much as we have been talking about DE here off and on
this year, it has only just now occurred to me that DE should be
effective internally against tapes as they are clearly a soft bodied creepy.

<<<<Hope this helps -
Cinda Young
Driwind Alpacas>>>>

Absolutely, thanks Cinda.
Warmly, Janice, still waiting for my DE to come in.

PS, there used to be a product for killing fleas outside, may still be
around, haven't really looked for it in a long time. It was dehydrated
organisms (can't remember what it was exactly) that you rehydrate in
your hose end sprayer and apply to your yard. They (the little
rehydrated critters) specifically eat flea larvae. I don't know how
effective it was/is as I have such a large "yard" that it was not
feasible for me to use, but it was supposed to be extremely effective
for about 3 mos as I recall.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

__._,_.___
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[AlpacaTalk] re: Catching up

Janice,
I just wanted to again reiterate the importance of separating your males and females. The problems with your crias all those times could well have been the result of Charlie Brown just breeding your female in her last months of pregnancy.
When a female is in her last month especially, she gives of pheromones that smell like she is open instead of pregnant. I have heard stories about females being traumatized at this time by a male that slipped through the fencing or an open gate. It is TERRIBLY damaging to a female's insides and can indeed cause death to either the mother and/or cria. And it can happen with only one unlucky breeding. I can't imagine what repeated breeding would do, makes me shudder to think about it.
A male WILL breed a female- pregnant or not- and it is DANGEROUS for both her and the fetus. This isn't just my opinion, if is a fact.

We know that overbreeding can cause permanent damage to a female- just imagine what that would to to the fetus inside??

Since you have difficulty getting your pacas to a vet, separating them is the simplest, most humane and cost effective thing to do to prevent possible further problems.
I strongly advise this course of action as a breeder for ten years now.
Best of luck, and glad to hear Merry is doing so much better.
Slainte~
Rachelle

Black Magic Alpaca Ranch
Honesty, Integrity, Quality
Wyatt & Rachelle Black
P.O. Box 457
6500 Digier Road
Lebec, CA
93243
(661-248-6568)
wyattblack@earthlink.net
http://pasturemusings.blogspot.com

Lysa, I always suspected my Charlie Brown had some llama in him, he was
bigger than other alpacas I had seen and just didn't look quite the
same; also had big ears. According to his papers he was all alpaca, but
still.....I always wondered if it was possible for llama and alpaca to
interbreed. Now I know it is. He never fathered a healthy baby either
and I have sometimes wondered if that would somehow be related to having
some species interbreeding.
How is it going with your 2 new boys? Any luck with the halter training?

Warmly, Janice

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

__._,_.___
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[AlpacaTalk] RE: Fleas

<<<<Ah-ha! How I've battled fleas!

First thing is you need to get rid of the fleas or you're only
fighting an endless battle.

Twenty Mule Team Borax (a laundry soap) is excellent -- and non-
toxic! -- way to rid house of fleas. Sprinkle it liberally
everywhere the house pets sleep and/or rest...that means carpets,
furniture, and beds. Vacuum 24 to 36 hours later and throw dirt into
plastic bag tied at top and placed in trash container away from
house. Do not ever leave dirt in vacuum; fleas will get out.
Reapply the Borax in the house. The Borax dehydrates the fleas and
you shouldn't have to reapply after the second time for at least a
year unless you shampoo your carpet.>>>>

As I was reading this I was already wording my reply to let you know
that DE does the same thing.....I used to use it in my house before the
flea treatments came out that we have today - Frontline and Advantage.
But, ugh, what a mess.
Then I got to the next paragraph :-). So why are you not just using DE
in house as well, instead of the Borax? I am pretty sure somewhere
along the way I have read/heard that Borax is toxic. But if not and if
it is less expensive, which I am sure it must be, then why not use that
outside as well, where the cats lie, etc. I wouldn't waste it outside
where the rain and dew will wash it away, but do think I should be
sprinkling it around in the barn loft where they sleep. It doesn't
actually dehydrate the adult fleas tho, just the larvae......fleas have
a very hard body that the DE doesn't affect. So there is a lag time
between sprinkling that around and seeing any improvement....the adult
fleas have to die on their own. Perhaps an Advantage/Frontline
treatment and sprinkling of the DE at the same time would be the best
attack plan. I have wondered about rubbing the animal down with DE, but
worry about how much that would dry out their skin so have never tried
that. With the cats, they would lick it off and so get their internal
worming taken care at the same time!

<<<Outside I would sprinkle DE liberally where the cats spend the most
time and where the indoor pets might lie (garden, door mats, etc).
Then I would add DE to the food of all the cats and dog. (Someone
else will have to tell you how much because I haven't used it, but
have heard it works well.)

Yes, the medication is expensive. The DE should work, too, and
shouldn't be as hard on the older animals' systems.

And actually once you get rid of the fleas so the animals aren't
being constantly re-infected their strong bodies should get rid of
the tapes over the course of time.>>>>

The tapeworm med, not matter what it is, even the OTC Safeguard for
dogs, IS expensive and you are right, it is a vicious cycle. I keep
putting that expensive Advantage or Frontline on him to treat for fleas.
Still he has fleas And tapes; haven't thought lately about using DE
*on* him. The more I think about it, the more sense that makes. Put DE
on him, sprinkle around in the barn loft where the outside cats sleep
and in the rugs where the dog sleeps inside and start adding some DE to
his food as well.....I wonder how much, someone here posted not too long
ago how much they give each of their animals, I am pretty sure I saved
that post, will have to try and find it - he is about 100#, getting on
in years. Then watch and wait before treating with the chemical tape
wormer. On the other hand, I hate thinking about him carrying this tape
load for so long. It can't be doing a thing good for his health, esp at
this age. But as much as we have been talking about DE here off and on
this year, it has only just now occurred to me that DE should be
effective internally against tapes as they are clearly a soft bodied creepy.

<<<<Hope this helps -
Cinda Young
Driwind Alpacas>>>>

Absolutely, thanks Cinda.
Warmly, Janice, still waiting for my DE to come in.

PS, there used to be a product for killing fleas outside, may still be
around, haven't really looked for it in a long time. It was dehydrated
organisms (can't remember what it was exactly) that you rehydrate in
your hose end sprayer and apply to your yard. They (the little
rehydrated critters) specifically eat flea larvae. I don't know how
effective it was/is as I have such a large "yard" that it was not
feasible for me to use, but it was supposed to be extremely effective
for about 3 mos as I recall.

__._,_.___
Message posts are the opinion of individuals posting and are not necessarily endorsed or approved by Yahoo! or the moderator of this group. The purpose of this discussion group is to ensure that all points of view can be aired. It is the responsbilty of all individuals who post to treat others with respect and civility.
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