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Saturday, January 17, 2009

Re: [AlpacaTalk] Catching up

Thanks Janice, for your sentiments. Natalia is perfectly fine, she
doesn't seem to have "suffered a loss" so to speak, so I don't feel
it as a loss, either. I didn't take pics of this set of fetuses, but
they're still outside the back door. :P As with the first set, one is
light pink and sort of normal colored, the other, smaller one is very
dark pink, almost red. Not sure which one is "normal" though... Seems
as though the smaller darker one is the "problem" twin. Just because
of observations of inflamed tissue... it's dark and red. Since I
didn't send either set for analysis, I won't know a thing. But I will
talk to our vet who will be out soon to draw bloods for BVD tests and
FTA cards.

Ah, good point about the Zephyr halter on a cria. I actually don't
know if they make a cria size. We do have other sort of standard
halters in newborn alpaca size "N", weanling "W", and yearling sizes
"Y". I think we got them from Quality Llama Products or something
like that. They're online.

Regarding the question of llama in the background, I wouldn't worry
about it you have an ARI certificate. Some say it's likely that most
of our North American alpaca stock has varying degrees of llama in
the background, indeed some say it's likely that all or most South
American alpaca stock has llama blood. Whatever, nothing we can do
about it. And I don't think llama/alpaca mixes are any less sturdy or
robust than "purebloods."

I do have to second the post regarding separating your intact male
from females, in case I hadn't already weighed in on this. Now that
I'm writing this, I think I already have. But it is very important to
separate them. Overbreeding can severely damage a female's uterus,
and a male's attempts to breed a young female can be fatal to the
little one.

And wow, I've never heard of temps like that in Georgia! Well, I
guess I have seen pics of huge icicles hanging from orange trees in
Florida in cold spells. But still! :)

I believe I suggested this to you before, and I really recommend it:
Please look up your local AOBA affiliate. You don't have to join, but
you can contact other breeders near you for support, find out who
their vets are, etc. They are probably the best resource you'll have.
Please contact them, they can easily be found by looking at the AOBA
website or just by googling Georgia alpaca breeders. Didn't you say
you're near Tennessee also? Maybe of you're closer to some breeders
there, they would be of help to you.

Heather

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[AlpacaTalk] Catching up

Have been so busy lately with dealing with weather stuff and all, have
marked several posts to reply to, but didn't get around to.

First, Heather, I am so sorry to hear about your loss....again. I
remember when she lost the previous twins. But after reading what the
other listmembers wrote about twins, I guess this is a good
thing....except for the lost production time for you.

Halter training - HAHAHAHA. Put on the little baby halter I have (from
Zephyr) and it promptly slid right down her neck. What sort of halter
do you use when the smallest one Zephyr makes is obviously too big for a
cria? The good news is Merry continues to gain wt, about 1/2# a day
give or take. I have stopped weighing her because she is kicking over
everything in my office and I just about cannot keep a hold of her going
to the office. Last night, at someone here's suggestion I did put Merry
in the little barn/shed with mama and my old female so they could keep
each other warm. Left the boys out to fend for themselves. I think I
already posted this morning that my stud muffin has a frozen lip. It
has thawed today (wish my water pipes/faucets would - really tired of
the bucket brigade) and is looking normal again. I would like to halter
him up and get a look at the tissue to make sure there is no damage.
But in this cold, I won't be doing that, at least not today.

<<<<I also thought that the alpacas were a bit smaller than my boys.
I am wondering if it is possible to breed alpacas and llamas? While
the ears on mine are alpaca sized and
they are definitely not as big as llamas, they are certainly larger
than most of the alpacas I saw at
farm show.>>>>

Lysa, I always suspected my Charlie Brown had some llama in him, he was
bigger than other alpacas I had seen and just didn't look quite the
same; also had big ears. According to his papers he was all alpaca, but
still.....I always wondered if it was possible for llama and alpaca to
interbreed. Now I know it is. He never fathered a healthy baby either
and I have sometimes wondered if that would somehow be related to having
some species interbreeding.
How is it going with your 2 new boys? Any luck with the halter training?

Warmly, Janice

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[AlpacaTalk] RE: female crias

<<<<Hi Janice,
Do I understand correctly, you have the momma and her little girl and
the stud all together?
Wow, I would separate them right away. Not only can you run the risk of
a uterine infection on momma if she is bred too early after birthing (or
too often), but the stud can continue to breed her right up through her
pregnancy and then you run the risk of possibly injuring the fetus,
causing premature labor, and a whole host of other troubles- including
permanent injury to the female.
And, it is very possible the male will try to breed the little girl if
the momma is adamant about refusing him and that could kill her.

Your male could be sweet as honey but he is still a male and driven to
reproduce, he won't hesitate to breed his daughter or think about her age.

I don't mean to scare you, and I know people do field breed- but they
remove the male after the female is confirmed pregnant.
Get a nice gelded llama who has been with girls and a gelding for your
boy and keep them apart. Just better all around I think.
Slainte~
Rachelle>>>>

Thanks for your reply Rachelle. And yes i have to say that all mine are
together.....I have so few left - only 2 females, one stud, and one
gelding that in order to separate them someone would have to be alone
and I don't think that would go over very big with the one left alone.
Plus, I only have hay in one place and water in the other place; and tho
I have 2 separated pastures (what a joke calling that space a "pasture"
is!) they are both small and my guys like to have room to roam
about....as I'm sure they all do. The woods (for shade) are in one area
and the hay/loafing shed is in the other. So not really a good set up
right now. Since I've not before had a female cria it has not been an
issue up to now.

And yes papa is already mating mama. I've only seen them mating once,
my dd saw them another time. But I know in my long ago readings it
apparently is common in those professionally breeding to breed the
female the day after birthing. That always made me shudder. I used to
keep my mom and babies separate from papa for a time and that male would
sit outside their gate and just moan day and night for his girlfriend.
I just didn't want any mating going on until mama had time to recuperate
from the birth. But then after I kept reading about birthing and
immediate mating i assumed it must be ok as the big guys were doing it.
So for the sake of companionship I stopped separating them.

Also what my understanding is is that once a female is pregnant, the
male no longer has any interest - something about the hormonal change
signaling that she is no longer open. My males (I've only had 2 not
gelded so I am far from knowledgeable) have never tried repeatedly to
mate. I see them chasing/mating for a few days and then see no more of
that activity for a very long time. If I see it again after a number of
months, I assume a fetus was lost and they are trying again. And I also
did not think a male would be interested in/attracted to a female who
was not "receptive"?

So that was my question, at what age would a young female start
producing the pheromones that signal the male that she is "ready"?

<<<<I have to agree. I meant to respond to this point. We NEVER haver
adult males in with females, except when we walk them from the boys'
pasture to the girls' pasture for hand breeding. Then we take the
sire back home again immediately after.

Your male pasture doesn't need to be huge, especially if it's just
for one or two males, but they do need to be separated from the
females. It's not even advisable to house geldings with females, as
they can breed open females and since she won't get pregnant, will
over breed and can cause serious uterine damage, infection, or worse.

Best of luck!
Heather>>>>

Well I could put the male and the gelding together in one pasture, but
they are mixing it up way too often for my likes, and confined to a
smaller area I fear it would get worse. My gelding, who had the
terrible slash wounds on his neck this summer, had a ripped up ear a few
weeks ago. I know that came for those 2 mixing it up. Funny, he is so
much bigger than the stud, but he always seems to be the one with the
injury. So that leaves me with leaving the stud all alone, which I have
been told a thousand times is extremely stressful to alpacas - to be
without their herd/buddies, *and* leaving the gelding in with the girls
which you also say not to do. But they have all been together for many
many years and I have never not once seen him do anything remotely
resembling mating behavior. Or leaving them all together. So far they
have done just fine all together, and I certainly have not had a glut of
crias! I usually seem to get one about every 2 yrs or so. I never see
any excessive mating or chasing going on, in fact see it rarely.

I will take what you both have said to heart, but right now there is not
really much that is acceptable that I can do to separate them. I have
planned and hoped to fence another connected area this spring....but
that was so I could rotate them off the only bit of green pasture they
have in the summer, and which is overgrazed and I am sure totally
infested. So that still won't solve the dilemma of needing to separate
them. Maybe when I have more that would be more feasible, but with only
4 (and 1/2) it is just lonely.

I have given some consideration to Rachael's suggestion of getting a
guard llama for protection, but if he/she is separated from part of the
herd, not much use as a guard. Can't really afford more to take care of
and feed right now anyway.

So the question remains....if the ideal cannot be done separating all
males and females, at what age would Merry become attractive to her papa?

any more input guys?
Thanks! Janice

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[AlpacaTalk] Re: OT: tapeworms in dogs/cats

Ah-ha! How I've battled fleas!

First thing is you need to get rid of the fleas or you're only
fighting an endless battle.

Twenty Mule Team Borax (a laundry soap) is excellent -- and non-
toxic! -- way to rid house of fleas. Sprinkle it liberally
everywhere the house pets sleep and/or rest...that means carpets,
furniture, and beds. Vacuum 24 to 36 hours later and throw dirt into
plastic bag tied at top and placed in trash container away from
house. Do not ever leave dirt in vacuum; fleas will get out.
Reapply the Borax in the house. The Borax dehydrates the fleas and
you shouldn't have to reapply after the second time for at least a
year unless you shampoo your carpet.

Outside I would sprinkle DE liberally where the cats spend the most
time and where the indoor pets might lie (garden, door mats, etc).
Then I would add DE to the food of all the cats and dog. (Someone
else will have to tell you how much because I haven't used it, but
have heard it works well.)

Yes, the medication is expensive. The DE should work, too, and
shouldn't be as hard on the older animals' systems.

And actually once you get rid of the fleas so the animals aren't
being constantly re-infected their strong bodies should get rid of
the tapes over the course of time.

Hope this helps -
Cinda Young
Driwind Alpacas

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[AlpacaTalk] RE: Colostrum supplement

<<<<Hope this helps get a handle on this issue. You can keep the frozen
stuff
over a year, but then should refresh it.

Allison Moss-Fritch
>>>>

Yes this helps a lot Allison, thanks for taking the time to share your
notes. So if I am going to purchase I might as well go ahead and
purchase the specific alpaca colostrum to keep on hand, instead of calf,
goat, etc from someplace like PBS. I bet the alpaca colostrum is much
more expensive? As is everything related to alpacas! Assuming that it
is I wonder about the cost/benefit ratio for something that there is
high probability of not needing?

It was the bovine serum in the Sav-A-Caf colostrum supplement that I was
concerned about. Any one have any info on using something like that? I
am thinking it would be best to stick with the multi species
colostrum/no serum, but don't really know, since I know serum is often
recommended for an at risk cria. The multi species is relatively
inexpensive so not a burden for me to keep on hand. But will order the
alpaca colostrum if the consensus is that is substantially better for
our crias; of course logic says it would be, but again I am looking at
cost/benefit ratios here, and again don't have any idea how much the
alpaca specific colostrum costs. If it is not significantly more
expensive then of course that is a no brainer.

Thanks! Janice
PS Since I basically have no vet I wouldn't be able to run IGg anyway,
but I am going to print out what you have written to put in my manual
that I share with the vet when I am lucky enough to have one.

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[AlpacaTalk] Re: Supplies to keep on hand

<<<<Vets at UCD suggest giving the "covexin 8" which has both tetanus
and CD for
various strains

Of the "C" part. That was just in the symposium. I think Fort Dodge makes
it.

They were questioned about its safety and whether it was "overkill" and the
response from

The vets was NO, this is OK to give to your alpacas and they need most of
the stuff that is in it;

What is extra won't hurt them.

In any case, that is the newest information given out by University of
California Vet school at

Their annual symposium

Allison Moss-Fritch>>>>

Interesting. That is what my first mentor used. She owns a quite large
llama farm about an hour from me and that is where I used to take my
first 2 alpacas (in my SUV) to get sheared each year and she would
administer their annual vaccines, trim teeth, etc as well. Then when I
got Doc Evans first (and 2nd) manual he is not fond of this vaccine and
prefers just the CD/T. The old cow vet I used here for a while didn't
have a clue nor a suggestions. I think he was just administering the
CD/T at my suggestion....but can't really remember, may have done Co8
one year as well.
Does anyone know if Doc Evans has changed his suggestion?
One thing I love about his manual is that he gives not only his
protocol, suggestions and observations, but also includes Dr Anderson's
and Dr Pugh's as well. I suppose I should pay more attention to Dr
Pugh's protocol as he is the closest to me geographically and that might
have something to do with the various protocols.....or else they are
just a reflection of different beliefs and experience. I believe I
recall that Doc Evans says he has seen more reactions and abscesses with
the Co8.

I recall I pretty detailed conversation here recently with Heather I
believe it was sharing some research info on the various strains of "C"
and how they do not affect alpacas?

Luckily, I guess - not so sure now after reading about this anaphylactic
shock possibility - I can get vaccines OTC, now if I could just get the
vet to let me keep some epinephrine on hand......and some Banamine, and
some tapeworm meds, and some SMZ. After I found one of my girls with
her jaw swollen up to the size of a football in the middle of the night
(when I was treating her eye every 4 hrs) I asked the vet for some epi
to keep on hand and she wouldn't give me any, said to go get some
benedryl.....but gave me no idea how to administer it. This is the same
vet that would not give me a script for tapeworm meds for my dog who
clearly and obviously had tapeworms back in the summer....and still has
them :-(. My old cow vet would have given me anything I asked for.
And the horse folks I know all keep banamine on hand. but I can't seem
to get any. I will not vaccinate again without some epi on hand. So I
guess I won't be vaccinating again :-(.

Thanks! Janice

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[AlpacaTalk] Re: OT: tapeworms in dogs/cats

<<<<Tapeworms in dogs and cats are a different species then those see in our
alpacas. The ones in dogs and cats are usually Dipylidium which the
animal gets
by ingesting and infected flea. There is no other way to get them you have
to eat the flea. Dogs are also susceptible to Taenia a tapeworm they can get
from eating wild rabbits and rodents, this is much more uncommon.
The tapeworm we see in alpacas is Moniezia and Thysaniezia which the animals
pick up while grazing in an infected pasture.
>>>>

Thanks for this info Allison. How do these species of tapeworms get
into the pasture to begin with? And do they look the same in the stool,
IOW, can I see them as I can in the dog and cats stool? And my
assumption is the Safeguard will take care of them? How about Ivermec?

The dog got these tapeworms (Taenia) one summer from catching and
eating wild rabbits. It was the *worst* tapeworm infestation I have
ever ever ever seen. It was truly disgusting. No more wild rabbits on
my property, at least haven't seen any in years :-( thanks to the cats
and dogs I suppose. so I know his tapes are coming from fleas....which
none of the flea meds seem to work for the past several years I just
cannot seem to get totally rid of the fleas; even treating him bi weekly
instead of monthly and that Frontline Plus is supposed to be effective
for 3 months against fleas - NOT. Even in this frigid weather he is
still chewing on fleas. The Advantage is more effective, but still not
as much as it was years ago. When these products first came out they
were like a miracle.....not a flea to be found anywhere. Now it seems
all it does is knock them back a bit.

And I guess the outside cats would be invested with both kinds....from
fleas as well as eating rodents (at least I hope they are doing their
job in that dept). So I need a product that is effective against both
those species for them.

Thanks for the info!
Janice

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[AlpacaTalk] Re: OT: tapeworms in dogs/cats

<<<<Do you have a PetSmart in your area that has the vet clinic
associated with it? THey usually offer a free exam, then you just have
to pay for the meds. It is a state law here in NY that you cant get any
meds for pets without a current exam (i think within the last 6-12
months.) >>>>

Thnaks Nancy, great to know, but unfortunately the closest PetSmart to
me is an hour away. The problem is I have had to downsize my vehicle
and where I used to drive an SUV large enough to haul my alpacas around
in, now I am in (very efficient) Honda Accord that I can't even get my
large dog in (because of the baby seat in the middle of the back). But
that is still good info to have.

<<<<Janice, also note that alpacas can get tape worms too (usually only if
stressed), so you should probably check their stool as well if the
cats and dogs have been around their paddocks (especially Merry and
her mom). Sorry, I don't know how to treat it.

Morgen>>>>

I wondered about that but figured their fleece was thick enough that
fleas likely didn't bother them. Yes, the cats are all over the
pastures and barn/shed. Safeguard says it treats tapeworms, but I did
not find it to be effective in the dog and cat. I'll be looking more
closely at their stool. I have yet to find Merry's poop. I did find
her meconium.....miracle. I was watching very closely in that first
week for her poop and saw her once straining and saw the beans
"crowning" but she couldn't get them out. I gave her some Karo Syrup on
her tongue that day, but have not been able to catch her pooping again.
Been so much going on here dealing with the floods and now the bitter
bitter freeze for the past 3 days......we can't even get water to flow
thru the hoses even tho I drained and disconnected them before the hard
freeze hit, are having to do the bucket brigade from the bathtub to the
horse barn with 5 gallon buckets and filling up the 5 gal buckets for
the alpacas, other bowls and such for the various other animals. Then
it freezes again in an hour or two. This is an all day affair, just
keeping the water coming for everyone, plus I am just not hanging around
in the pastures to watch for poop!

Speaking of the several day freeze - 5 below wind chill predicted for
today, but at least temp is supposed to rise into the high 30's, finally
getting above freezing; but I don't know how much good it will do. My
stud muffin apparently has a frozen lip; it is pulled up on one side and
this morning there is frozen goop hanging off his face like an icicle.
I guess he was drinking the cold water and it froze on his face? Or he
was drooling and it froze, pulling his lip up into a grotesque grin. I
am so worried that it is going to cause some damage, but don't know what
to do about it except wait for our weather to thaw and hope like the
dickens there is no freeze damage to the tissues. He is the most
skittish of the bunch, and won't even stand still for me to get a good
look even from a distance; as soon as I start to gaze in his direction
he is off. I hate to capture and halter him to exam as I am afraid to
mess with frozen tissue and take a chance of breaking it off while
trying to halter him; so all I know to do is wait. Any of you in cold
country have this happen? Any suggestions? Once again I can't help but
say how in the world do you guys deal with this bitter cold weather?

Warmly (brrrr), Janice in frozen GA

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