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Monday, September 22, 2008

[AlpacaTalk] Re: [AlpacaFiberAlliance] Fiber and how it relates to various yarn traits

Hi Deborah,
 
I mostly lurk on the Fiber Alliance, and have invested quite a bit of time working with alpaca fiber to spin, knit, crochet and I have friends that weave.
 
The comment i'm going to make on the guard hairs is significant -- itchy and can irritate skin. The wool sweater that the majority complain about so that wool has the reputation of being 'itchy' is from the guard hairs. Wool from sheep and fiber from alpacas [whether suri or huyaca] that contains guard hairs -- no matter how fine the micron count is -- will irritate the skin if it is processed into yarn for garments worn next to or close to the skin.
 
Yarn for knitting is not the same for yarn for weaving. Most yarns for knitting have too much of a 'twist' in them for weaving [both the 'Z' and 'S' twist]. Also -- yarns that are for warping are 'generally' stronger than those yarns that can be used for the weft. Someone with far more weaving experience than I can answer that in more detail.
 
Your question on woolen verses worsted -- both terms have very distinct meanings in knitting/crochet yarns that are completed [whether handspun or commercial] from the meanings in that are used in spinning of the yarns. Before I can answer, or others can accurately answer that question.
 
Lopi and boucle yarns -- Lopi is also a type of sheep, if i remember correctely, and a specific type of loosely spun woolen yarn. Boucle is also just a type of yarn -- how it is spun with a specific 'texture' created as the end product.
 
There is a wonderful book that contains a great deal of information on yarn that has come out in the past year on yarns and the types of fiber and material created. It is geared more towards knitters/crocheters than weavers -- it is the type of reference book that most knitters/crocheters will have in their personal library if they are able to obtain a copy : "The Knitter's Book of Yarn: The Ultimate Guide of Choosing, Using, and Enjoying Yarn." ISBN-10: 0307352161; ISBN-13: 978-0307352163.
 
For questions on staple length and types of yarn that can be created: silk and flax are some of the longest individual fibers in the world -- can make yarns that are very very thin - or thickern yarns in diameter. Same with wools, cottons, camelids, etc. The type of ply and then the subsequent yarn that is made by a hand spinner is controled by what is desired as the end results. There are specifics that do need to be observed - thin rovings do not spin up to thick plys, etc.
 
Spin off magazine by Interweave publications [which is at most library systems] is an excellent resource on yarn types and fiber types.
 
Good luck on your information hunt. I do hope that I have answered some of the questions, though the answers may have only led to more questions.
 
 
sharyn
fiber fiend for over 30 years.
knit/crochet/spin and soon to be weaving

I'm hoping there are many people who can answer these various questions for me.  They relate to how to initially sort fiber to then process into various styles of yarn.
 
Yarn for warping.  What is the best type of fiber to use do this?  I know it depends on what is being made so the more details the better.  Because it's for the warp should it be spun differently (More twist??) What should the staple length be, and ideally the grade (again I know this depends on what is being made. 
 
Would a longer staple length be better as it can be spun tighter and be a thinner thread????  Am I thinking worsted vs woolen here and how does that really work?  Were does suri fit in here as far as grading and processing by itself or blended with huacaya?
 
When grading fiber how do you decide what is processed into what type of yarn  ( size---- lace weight, fingering, sport, lopi)  I've been told that oftentimes the fiber "says" what it is to become.  So.....my question here is ..What's it telling you???  How do you rank it.  Grade first, length second, handle,?????
 
Lopi and boucle anyone care to share anything on these two types of yarn in relation to the initial fiber used to make them? 
 
Rug yarn.    How short is short to be able to use the "other" stuff to send off to make those great rugs?  How clean/dirty can the fiber be?  What else can be made from this type of fiber besides Texas rugs? 
 
Any additional information to keep this thread moving along would be appreciated.  It is suppose to be about the fiber, isn't it???
 
How about the benefits of dehairing, the need for uniformity of staple length, etc.
 
 
Deborah K Robinson
TerraSoLuna Alpacas
....where the Earth, the Sun, and the Moon
meet to inspire criation.
Golden - Colorado
303.503.4117
terrasolunalpacas@earthlink.net
http://www.alpacanation.com/terrasoluna.asp
 

 
 
 

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