Re: [Alpacasite] Re: need good hay in California

Gary - your experience may be that your alpacas
will "universally not touch bermuda", but this
forage most often is a superb hay for many who
are feeding alpacas and llamas. Here is some
information on bermuda that may be helpful to some.

http://www.timberlakefarms.net/bermudagrass.html

This nutrition section has other information on other grasses as well.

http://www.timberlakefarms.net/gettingstarted.html

Steve H.

At 05:57 PM 12/03/2005, you wrote:
>Don't we all ...
>
>It sounds like you're new to volume hay purchasing in California.
>Sorry to tell you this but if you haven't gotten good grass hay by
>about September, you aren't going to be getting any.
>
>Last year right around this time it became apparent we didn't have
>enough hay laid up to get us to first cutting in the spring. I'll
>tell you what we did and hopefully you can get by.
>
>To get through this it's a really good idea to test all the
>different batches of hay you have or can get.
>
>Ideally what you want is something near 12% protein. So you're going
>to make custom blends. It's a real pain but better than the
>alternative.
>
>Buy some alfalfa hay! Good alfalfa hay is usually 16-18%. You're
>going to use that to get the protein of your mix up to 12%. If you
>mix it in good they will not be too successful picking out the
>alfalfa.
>
>If it's not too stalky, oat hay is good roughage to mix with the
>alfalfa but they waste a lot of it.
>
>Avoid the Bermuda if you can. We've tried giving it to our herd a
>few times and universally, if there is anything else they won't
>touch the Bermuda.
>
>First find and segregate the best hay you have or can get your hands
>on and ration that out to your pregnant dams. If that is not 12%
>protein you will need to add some alfalfa.
>
>Start giving everyone some grain along with whatever pellets you
>normally feed. Phase the grain in gradually. What I ended up with
>was one portion of pellets (one cup) and a grain portion that was
>about ½ cup. One grain mix we've found works and didn't have any
>adverse effect was 50% dry cob and 50% rolled oats.
>
>It's expensive but buy fresh vegetables when you can get them at
>semi-reasonable prices. Carrots (use a potato peeler to make very
>thin slivers), cabbage, lettuce, kale, any other green leafy veggie,
>apple peels. Don't give them this stuff every day but 2-3 times a
>week in small amounts.
>
>Also get some variety of early or winter grass seed. Plant it NOW
>where they can't get at it. By March you'll be able to allow the
>pregnant dams an occasional treat.
>
>Good luck
>Greystone Manor
>Gary Epp
>
>
>
>
>
>
>--- In Alpacasite@yahoogroups.com, "Wyatt Black" <wyattblack@e...>
>wrote:
> >
> > Hi all,
> > Sorry to blast all the sites like this, but I am almost ready for
>a big load of hay. Anyone in CA getting a truckload of good, fresh,
>high quality hay any time soon that we can get in on?
> >
> > We are currently buying small quantities of Bermuda and 3-way, but
>I am seeing not enough weight maintenance on the stuff we are
>getting. I am really unhappy with my hay, and am looking forward to
>some good stuff in large quantities :)
> >
> > Would like timothy, oat, or orchard but will also consider good 4-
>way.
> > Thanks!
> > Rachelle
> >
> >
> > Wyatt & Rachelle Black
> > Black Magic Alpaca Ranch
> > Honesty, Integrity, Quality
> > 6500 Digier Road
> > P.O. Box 457
> > Lebec, CA
> > 93243
> > http://www.blackmagicalpacaranch.com
> > wyattblack@e...
> > 661-248-6568
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
>List administrator - Rick Horn - All American Alpacas alpacas@alpacaweb.com
>http://aaalpacas.com
>
>
>
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>
>
>
>

Steve . . . .

TimberLake Farms, Inc.
Tom Cameron, D.V.M. & Steve Hull, Ph.D.
Edmond, Oklahoma

A Full Service Alpaca Farm Including Seminars And Consulting

www.timberlakefarms.net

e-mails: mailto:steve@timberlakefarms.net
mailto:tom@timberlakefarms.net

Farm Telephone: 405 341-8444
Farm Cell Telephone: 405 550-3023
Farm Fax: 405 330-8444

note: opinions made here are not and cannot be
construed to be specific veterinary advice,
diagnosis or treatments. Both Tom and Steve
strongly suggest always checking with your own veterinarian.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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